*Makeup Artist, Michele Burke is one of the most versatile talents working worldwide today. The recipient of numerous professional awards; Michele is the winner of Two Oscars for Best Makeup, Bram Stoker’s Dracula and Quest for Fire, and has been nominated a total of six times. Michele has also twice won the British Academy Award (B.A.F.T.A.) for Makeup in Cyrano de Bergerac and Quest for Fire.
Not only does Burke apply makeup on some of the leading actors of the day (i.e.: Tom Cruise), but she also plans the makeup pallet for every single character, which means conducting extensive research if she is working on a specific time period or Sci-Fi movie like The Cell or Interview with The Vampire.
Burke isn’t just the makeup artist du jour because of her ability to create memorable characters. Her fate is sealed as one of the most influential makeup artists in the business also because of her collaboration with Geka.
Geka is the leader in developing precise cosmetic applicators and packaging that are adapted to the formulation and application effect. In a nut-shell, Geka makeup applicators are the beauty tool of choice and can be found behind the scenes of your favorite movies, award shows, and red carpet events or in the hands of Oscar Winning Makeup Artists.
We are honored to have Michele in the Heaven Salon hot seat. Discover Oscar Winning Makeup Tips that make a difference in everyday makeup application, and most importantly, how to wear the right shade of Red Lipstick.
HS: Thank you Michele, it is a pleasure having you here with us.
MB: It’s my pleasure really.
HS: As a makeup artist for film, what beauty tips/tricks can you share that would be achievable at home?
MB: There are key features such as your Skin, Eyes, Lips and Cheeks, Determine your focus and choose which to empathize, it’s either a strong lip or eye, never both.
EYES: For eyes outline them with a shadow or pencil at the root of your lashes, smudge and use great mascara. Look at your brows and either tweeze the strays or fill in gaps with a shadow, pencil or brush.
Skin: Foundation or mineral powders do wonders to make the skin appear flawless, start with the shadows under the eyes and blend along the “T” zone, nose, eyes and mouth. Blend a lot; hide all pimples and blemishes for a perfect canvas.
CHEEKS: A little blush on the apples of the cheeks, brushed out and under the brow bone makes for a healthy and rested appearance. I recommend a peachy pink or golden tan for glowing healthy skin.
LIPS: I favor a tinted lip gloss but there are times when a signature RED is best.
Rule of thumb: Go light and minimal for day and stronger but blended for evening!
HS: In makeup application do formulas and ingredients make a difference?
MB: They do, the only real way to know is to rub and blend some onto your skin. The best place is the side of the jawline and look at it with a magnified mirror, if it looks dry, cakey, mottled, or does not match your skin tone then try something else.
HS: Are there any makeup artists whose work you admire?
MB: I admire so many, the list would be endless both in fashion and film. I admire Eiko Isioka, I learned so much about creating character from her and I’m a fan of Serge Lutens.
HS: Tell us a little bit about your collaboration with Geka – any other future collaborations we can look forward to in the future?
MB: I work with Geka on 2 levels. I design mascara brushes, lip applicators and bottles. In addition I also evaluate and test GEKA’s own in house designs. We will be premiering an international lip and eye presentation at Cosmoprof Bologna 2012.
HS: Women and Red Lipstick?
MB: “Red she said” I am a woman who likes Red lipstick. Red is the “little black dress” of makeup, you can put it on and look instantly chic. It can look very clean and sophisticated if the right red is applied.
Rule of thumb:
Warm skin tones have greenish-blue veins and creamy-white teeth, they look best in Fire engine reds, watermelon, oranges and nectarines. For pink reds I recommend coral, tangerine, peach or salmon.
Cool skin tones have bluish veins and their teeth are usually blue/white or gray/white they can wear maroon, burgundy, fuchsia or raspberry reds, anything with a pink undertone.
However this is just a guide, when in doubt test the red and smile, if it does not look good with the color of your teeth, try another red.
HS: Is there a difference between high definition makeup and regular makeup?
MB: This is difficult, if makeup is not applied correctly, and by that I mean well blended, and you see it with your naked eye in the daylight, it will show up on film or TV, even makeup specifically for HD. I find that tinted moisturizers work best.
HS: What is the biggest mistake women make with their makeup application?
MB: Not paying attention to their skin. A little tinted moisturizer works wonders, Flawless skin is really an attractive asset. Also the wrong color of gloss or lipstick for your skin tone and dry-clumpy mascara.
HS: Having only 5 minutes in the morning for makeup, what items should a woman use?
MB: A tinted SPF moisturizer or mineral powder foundation, blush, mascara, and gloss – the 5 minute face.
HS: Men and makeup?
MB: Difficult, It is all about grooming! A good anti-ingrown hair aftershave, a skincare routine and not letting the brows or ear hair get wild. Let’s not forget a great haircut.
HS: Basic principles of makeup?
MB: Play up your best feature, be well polished and groomed! Develop a good skincare routine, than you can add mascara, blush and lip gloss. If you know your undertones either warm or cool and understand that system it makes it easier to choose the correct colors.
Rule of Thumb: If the veins on your wrists seem more green you are a warm tone, if they seem blue you are a cool tone.
HS: Favorite tools of the trade?
MB: A blending sponge, my fingers and my great eyesight!!
HS: Your signature style that you are best known for?
MB: I’m known for my light touch and the color palette I work with. I’m also known for beauty and special effects makeup.
HS: Advice for the aspiring professional makeup artist?
MB: Learn everything you can, practice all the time. Do every job you are offered no matter the pay. Always keep your skills up and continue to learn. Be hard working, gracious and attentive to your actor or models needs, and really scrutinize your work. Pay attention to the job you are meant to be doing and make sure your clients or director is getting what you were hired to do.
HS: What is a typical working day like?
MB: Usually up very early, sometimes like 4 or 5 am, a 12 hour plus day is normal. It is hard work and often difficult conditions, not often glamorous. But we crazy makeup artists are really passionate about our art, and this is what fuels us, it is so much fun. So if you are being a makeup artist for the joy of the art you will love it if not then it will not last.
HS: Thank you Michele, we learned a lot!
If you are an aspiring makeup artist who wish’s to perfect your craft visit @MuseBeauty.pro for professional makeup lessons in the art of makeup application.